Minimum Safety Requirements for Weaponry

And Combat Gloves for Vikings Combat


By Jim Gilbanks.
Vikings Armourer and Master At Arms

1. General

  • 1.a. No weapon, offensive or defensive. , should have burred, jagged, splintered or square edges or be in an otherwise dangerous conditions

  • 1.b. All weapons must comply with the safety rules outlined below and with authenticity requirements. The Landscab Armourer, Authenticity Thegn, or Combat Training Thegn may prohibit a weapon from being used at any event, the weapon must then be modified and re-inspected before being used again. A Drengr may be empowered to do the pre-battle weapon checks.

  • 1.c. These rules do not include weapons that are used in certain scripted scenarios, e.g. javelins, sharp axes, however these may only be used with the full approval of the Konungr, or host Jarl, as appropriate.


    2. Weapon Dimensions

    These rules are not manufacturing limits but are the minimum dimensions allowed for edges and points, to be checked at pre-combat weapon checks.

    2.a Sword and Knife

    Edges should have a minimum thickness of 2 mm (0.787). In section this should be an arc of 1800 or shallower at 2mm diameter. An arc more elliptical than a semi-circle will be deemed sharp.

  • 2.a.1 Points should taper to no less than 1800 arc (or shallower) with a diameter of 18 mm (0.708") diameter A knife of 254 mm (10") blade length or less may have a point comprising of a diameter of 10 mm (0.394") with an arc or 1800 or shallower.

  • 2.a.2 Spear - side edges as for sword and knife. The leading edge/point should comply with one of the following:

  • 2.a.3 Spears of 3mm (0.118") thickness should have a 1800 or shallower arc of a 24.5 mm (0.965") diameter

  • 2.a.4 Spears of a 4.76 mm (0.188") may have a 1800 or shallower arc of 22.5 mm (0.887)

  • 2.a.5 Total length of spears should not exceed 228.5mm (7' 6").

  • 2.a.6The length of a single handed spear should not exceed 167.6 mm (5' 6").

    2.b Sword, knife and spear

    2.b.1 There will be a total length allowance of 72mm (3") which may be slightly sharper, provided that it is to the rear third of the blade. This may be of no less that 1.5 mm (0.059") and must be a shallow arc in section.

    2.c Axes

  • 2.c.1 Hand axes should have an edge of 3 mm (0.118"0 thickness with 1800 arc (in section) or shallower.

  • 2.c.2 Two - handed Axes should have an edge of 3 mm (0.118" thickness with an 1800 arc (in section) or shallower.

    e. The safety of leading and trailing edges will be left to the warrior responsible for weapon checks at each show, subject to the final decision of the Society Armourer.

    Please note, the safer you make a weapon, the fewer problems you will incur.


    3. Materials

  • 3.a Weapons may not be made from stainless steel or aluminium for Authenticity reasons.

  • 3.b Sword and Knife - must be made of a steel which is capable of being and has been hardened and tempered so that it will not form burrs in the manner of mild or unhardened steels. They must not be made from mild steel or be hard edged welded.

  • 3.c Spear - may be made from mild steel and may be hard edged welded.

  • 3.d Axes - may be made from mild steel and may be hard edge welded. It is recommended that axes be case hardened.


    4. The Catch-all

  • 4.a If a weapon fulfils the above requirements it will be allowed onto the field, subject to passing Authenticity checks.

  • 4.b If you feel that a weapon is safe but its design does not fulfil the above specifications, the Landscab Armourer may pass it as safe, but if he/she is not present at a subsequent event to verify this decision then it any be banned by the warrior performing the safety checks at that event. Under these circumstances, the safety checker will have the final say.

    The excuse "It's safe in the hands of an experienced warrior" will not be accepted because:-
    We do not have a test to assess your ability with a sharp, burred or illegal weapon.


    Original specifications by Tich Craddock, amended by Jim Gillbanks 15.11.05

    SAFETY GLOVES


    By Jim Gilbanks.
    Vikings Armourer and Master At Arms

    Safety gloves need to be a minimum of 6 mm thick and are essential for all warriors.

    A high percentage of all accident and in­juries occur on the hands and fingers and wrists.

    MAKING GLOVES

    First or all get a pair of strong gardening or welding gloves (or similar). No motorbike gauntlets please or gloves in bright colours (Red or Green) or Black.
    Make sure they fit so they come just past the wrist preferably fitting as close to the wrist as is comfortable.

    LEATHER COVERED

    Attach leather pieces (MIN 6mm thick) to the fingers, thumb and back of hand with twine or strong button thread (light to dark brown in colour). It you have difficulty getting hold of 6 mm leather you can use 2 and 4 mm and these can be stitched or glued together to form the 6 mm. An alternative to this is to place padding - mouse mats or similar, inside the fingers of the gloves, buy a larger size so that you can still move your fingers, and put a suitable covering on the outside to disguise them. If using undyed leather simply dye to mid to dark brown or use brown boot polish to darken the leather. Ensure the wrist is well covered in thick leather, as the vulnerable wrist bones are prone to injury.

    The pair of gloves below are acceptable examples of what we are looking for.

    The wrist coverage could be a little better, but the owner has gone to the trouble of adding a flap to protect the 'web' between the thumb and forefinger.

    2) Ensure the wrist is well covered in thick leather, as the vulnerable wrist bones are prone to injury.

    Overall both the pairs shown above are good. The left hand pair have again been covered in sheet leather. The right hand pair have been prepared differently as the wearer wishes. The left is covered in leather panels, and this is OK for use behind a steel shield boss. To maintain an authentic appearance the right hand one has a hard foam hocky glove inserted (shown exposed). This is also acceptable. Note the extra piece to protect the web between the finger and thumb again.

    3) It you have difficulty getting hold of 6 mm leather you can use 2 and 4 mm and these can be stitched or glued together to form the 6 mm. The top pair have actually used thin leather plus a closed cell foam layer.

    MAIL COVERED

    Some people prefer the look of a ringmail glove and this is an acceptable alternative. Be advised however, that a ring mail glove will add about 1 lb. to the weight of your hand -and ultimately your sword. This will mean that you will tire quickly, fight less effectively and be more prone to accidents.

    Since mail adds little protection for the weight, thick leather is recommended.

    If you prefer to wear ring mail gloves (not square section rings) then follow these instructions

    1. Stitch a minimum thickness of 2 mm leather to the gloves as above then attach the ring mail to the glove using strong thread (as above)
    2. Rings can be from 5 mm to 10mm diameter ­see Ring Mail Guide

    IMPORTANT POINT TO REMEMBER

    When it goes wrong, don't throw it in the di­rection of the window, it will probably break and get you into a lot of trouble.